Anthony+Z’s+Book+Review

**I only tell this part of the story because my uncle played a huge roll in my life at first he would hate it if we called him dad when we** **  **    Mavericks.But my uncle stepped in to raise me and frosty stepped in to guide jay at the age of fifteen. Jay had to learn many things that would help him survive mavericks like the four pillars of a basic foundation were Physical mental emotional and spiritual. Jay was tested by all these before he was even given a shot to surf mavericks so was frosty especially when his wife died. My uncle has sort of taught me those too but in a different form when I play a game or go ride my dirt bike on a racetrack he would try to get my confidence up and make me believe that I could do it because he knew I could. “There all kinds of sons, some are born to you, some just occur to you”   **  were younger. But If it wasn't for him I probably would have turned out way different he was my mentor when my dad had left and he sacrificed a lot for me and my family. when I lived in Santa Barbara we lived in house that was pretty close to the one jay lived in it was small and blue with three bedrooms and two bathrooms. But these rooms weren't big we all shared beds because we couldn't afford to buy brand new ones. But my uncle worked a lot of jobs and finally moved us to Ventura. I have learned many things from him and he has shown me that you don’t just get handed things you need to work for them. Just like frosty jays mentor my Uncles dad died when he was young although he had his mom he still struggled on some things like his anger and how to talk to people in a nice manner. But he eventually learned with raising me and his son just like frosty learned by listening to his wife and teaching Jay how to surf   ** **   He knew If I were to put my all I could conquer anything just like frosty had done with jay building him up so that he could not only survive the wave but survive all the obstacles in life. Frosty was hard on jay because he knew the risk of this wave and he wanted jay to understand that. I believe that's why uncle is hard on me at times because he was to make sure that i know that life isn't something that is easy there always going to be challenges.When jay took his first drop from mavericks he crashed and was held underwater for a reasonable amount of time but what made him great was that he went back to conquer what he had worked for it was his determination his devotion that gave him the confidence that he needed. When jay went back to finish what he had started he had left frosty a letter that he had given him before he took off to surf mavericks it said that he needed to conquer this wave because he will know that his fears don’t have a hold of him that he was alive. jay conquered his dream of surfing Mavericks and went on to take the surfing world by surprise. a photographer took a picture of his first sixty foot drop in at mavericks and made the front page of a magazine. Jay would marry his high school sweetheart and conquer more colossus waves.Jay would also die later on at the age of 23 on June 15 2001 free diving off the coast of the Indian islands like Maldives frosty and his wife Kim went to go say good bye to jay by swimming off the coast of Santa Cruz with the whole surfing community chanting for jay. his friend would later spray paint on a wall that said surf where you live and paint live like jay since he thought the turf war was ridiculous. His legend still live on today with a foundation and his surfboard the gun still being made. “  We all come from the sea, but we are not all of the sea. Those of us who are, we children of the tides, must return to it again and again, until the day we don't come back leaving only that which was touched along the way.” **
 * Have you ever heard the saying in order to get to the top you need to start at the bottom. Well in the book Chasing mavericks there is this young boy who was destined for greatness. He didn't Live in the mansion he didn't have the ideal family he was an only child with a mom who was trying to get herself together and a dad that had left him. But what seem hopeless was just the beginning of a great journey with his mentor friends and even his own family.  **
 * This book was something that really hit me hard mentally and emotionally It made me think of how I can re look at my situation. When I was around the age of four or five my dad had left me I was left with my uncle my mom and my grandma. Although Jay Moriarty was an only child I had siblings and cousins. I may have had company but I've always struggled with the fact that someday I'm going to have to except that my dad won’t come back and I'm not going to have the Ideal family with a Mom and a Dad together supporting me. So when I read this book I never wanted to put it down because it was like my life was being written down right before my eyes. I was able to understand the emotions of Jay because that's how I felt. When My dad had left me my mom kind of drifted off and I was going to live with that for a while just like jay I had to cope with what I had. Jay lived in a bungalow in Santa Cruz California with two bedrooms and one bathroom. He lived in one place where you need to learn how to surf because it was the surf spot of California But jay Had just moved there from South Carolina and all he could do at the time was time the swell of the wave. One time when he was timing the swell of the wave he had fallen into the ocean trying to save his friend Kim’s dog. Right when things seemed hopeless for him he was yanked out of the water and onto a surfboard before he knew it he was surfing a wave with the biggest swell of the day. The man who had saved him would later become his mentor not wanting to at first but would eventually warm up to him and see him as his son. if you look hard enough, there's always a way through it”  **
 * I know like jay that this is only the beginning of my story and hope to see what it brings. I may not have a mansion or the perfect family but I have what I got and with my mom, grandma and Uncle supporting me I hope I make an impact like Jay did.Jay started at the bottom and worked his way to the top of the surfing world which made him an inspiration to me. its the journey that you travel with friends and family thats the best part but its even better when you succeed together. **